Today I went
for the Indonesian breakfast, Mie Gorang, finally succumbing to the idea of
noodles for breakfast. Deliciously tasty and yes, very filling. The fried egg
on top is what nearly sent me over the edge; I did my best and managed to send
back an empty plate.
Robin and
myself decided to approach the beach from a different route today. We walked
down a dusty gang (road) and wondered in amazement at all the guesthouses that
were hidden along the street. Pemuteran must be an extremely busy village in
the high season to warrant all these accommodations. Hard to imagine
considering how quiet it is at the moment. I love it though like this. It is
like we have stumbled across an unspoilt town where the people are not jaded
from tourists and enthuse at your presence. It’s highly gratifying. The
ridiculous number of dive shops though shatters that illusion. At peak season I
bet it’s choccablock with tourists.
I can’t help
but notice in shock that a huge number of dwellings have what appears to be a swastika
embedded in their gates and shrines. Robin told me that in Hindu religion it is a symbol
for auspiciousness and good luck. It is the main symbol of Balinese Hinduism. Clockwise
it represents the sun and prosperity, counter-clockwise it represents the
night, destroyer of evil forces. Sadly in modern western society, the slightly
rotated version is now associated with racism and hatred.
Another hard
day is spent lounging by the beach, happily looking out on the sand, without
being actually on it. Hehe! I love the ‘idea’ of the beach. Can’t abide with
all that pesky sand though. Gets everywhere!!! Instead I gorge myself on
Gregory David Robert’s Mountain Shadow. Having read, and loved Shantaram nearly
five years ago, I was slow to read the sequel, fearing it just would not live
up to the first book. I’m a good bit in and while it’s readable and passes the
time, it’s not a patch on Shantaram at present. Parts feel really contrived,
over-written, the author is trying very hard to impart wise snippets here and
there but just falls short. Maybe I should re-read Shantaram and see if it
still regales me.
The sun was
very hot today. I spent a mere twenty minutes in the direct sunlight (while we
were walking along the beach) and could feel my skin trying to fry. Francois sunbathed
for an age and got burnt. Robin sunbathed for an age and got burnt. Red is not
a becoming colour. It just looks so sore – ouch!
Back to the
guesthouse and my shower is on the blink. The pressure is non-existent and so
the water instead of arcing off the rock simply dribbles down the side and
there’s not a hope in hell I can get at it. Feck! Thankfully Lu and Tony offer
me the use of theirs. While their pressure is also pitiful, the water at least flows
straight out from a showerhead and I can access it.
Dinner was
had at a lovely restaurant, Warung Tirta Sari, that served its food very aesthetically. Rice was
served in banana leaf triangular structures. Sauces were served in banana leaf
troughs with pretty flowers. All very pleasing on the eye, and quite tasty too.
Geoff and Robin shared a delicious Mahi-Mahi fish, while Francois made us laugh
and groan with his catalogue of highly inappropriate jokes.
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